Tuesday, 11 July 2017

Narrow your trousers hem

Have you ever had this pattern or pair of trousers that fit you nicely around the hips and thighs but you wished they tapered more towards your foot? In this post I'll show you how you can achieve this.

Let's start from a simple pattern drawing. Piece 1 is the front leg pattern, piece 2 is the back leg pattern.

If you want to shorten of lengthen the pattern, do that first, then follow the steps below:

1- Measure the hem on the front and back pattern pieces, A and B on the image below.

2- Calculate X=A+B

3- Now measure around your leg where the hem will be, we'll call this C, also point your foot and measure around the biggest bit where the heel is, we'll call this D. You need to manage to get the trousers past this point when you put them on 😃.

4- For this to look good, I recommend adding 6-8 cm to C, let's say we'll use 8cm. Now calculate Y.
If C+8 is equal to or greater than D, then Y=C+8.
If C+8 is less than D, then Y=D.

5- Now we need to reduce X to Y and do this proportionally, so next comes a bit of math so concentrate! 😜

6- New front hem length E=A×Y÷X, New back hem length F=Y-E.

7- Mark a distance (A-E)÷2 from each side of the front leg pattern.

8- Likewise mark a distance (B-F)÷2 from each side of the back leg pattern.

9- Most commercial patterns have knee positions marked, if not, hold the front leg pattern to you and mark the middle of your knee on the pattern, measure from hem to this mark and mark accordingly on the back leg pattern.

10- Draw a straight line from the marks made in steps 7 & 8 to the knee marks.

11- Fold along these newly drawn lines or cut away outside them, and use the modified pattern pieces.

The same can be done on your pair of sewn or RTW trousers as well, you can mark straight on the pants and sew along the new lines.

And leave me a comment below if you have any comments or questions 😊

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